The first thing I did in making this hat is drawing up the sketch.  Afterwards I moulded a base in bean shape and proceed by cutting bias from black and ivory sinamay.  The pleating aspect is the most important, difficult and creative part in making the spiral bean.  I have to lay the sinamay bias on top of each other, one after the other.  The lengths of the bias are not always equal because of the uneven shape of the bean.  So the bias needs to be very long and the cutting is only done when the bias has been attached to the bean.  The work is done by rolling up black and ivory bias to construct a maze shape design fixed in the middle of the bean with 2 spiral quills on top.

My inspiration for this design is derived from my slogan for 2012 spring summer collection, which is Pleat, Pleat and Pleat.  I have done many pleated works this season.  Most of my designs from ready to wear, to cut and sew and a larger part of my fascinators have pleating work incorporated into them.

First Prize £500 sponsored by Snooks the Hatters